Still being tested by - Thomas Lorkowski 

First class 02/23/23


Syllabus

  • Table Saw Safety
    • SawStop vs PowerMatic
    • Kick-Back - Prevention
      • Riving Knife / Splitter
      • Supporting the longest edge [only]
      • Stand outside the danger zone [between blade & fence]
  • Types of Blades
    • Cross-Cut
    • Rip
    • Combo
  • Typical Cuts
    • Rip Cuts
    • Cross Cuts
      • Mitter Gauge
      • Cross-Cut Sled
      • Sliding Table
  • Basic Controls
    • Raise/Lower the Blade - Setting the height
    • Tilt the blade
  • Changing the blade
    • Show how to remove the blade - leave out to show the cartridge
  • Changing the Cartridge
    • Show how to remove the riving knife [and remove]
    • Show the removal of the cartridge
    • Explain the difficulty of removal when the cartridge is embedded in the blade
      • Might need to pry with a “screwdriver” prybar
  • HANDS-ON: Make a “Sample Stick”
    • PREWORK: Cut several boards to ~14” and surface to S3S before class starts
    • It is a good example to have each student mark the cuts they are planning prior to cutting, that way they can verify the orientation of the blade and board are correct prior to cutting.
    • Explain how it is important to think of the order of cuts, and how the order impacts the stability of other cuts.
    • Rip Cut a board 2”-3” wide [note, you should get a couple of “sticks” from each board]
      • Use Rip Blade 
        • Someone needs to put the blade in since it’s out to show the cartridge
        • Verify riving knife is in place
        • Verify blade height is correct
        • Verify insert is flush with the table
        • Verify blade is at 90°
      • Use tape measure on the fence table for the width
        • Have student verify thickness after cutting, explain that it should be considered “close” but not always accurate - always check measurements
      • Verify that the students are putting the surfaced edge against the fence
    • Cross-Cut to 13” Long
      • Use Cross-Cut Blade
        • Someone else gets to install the blade - verify everything like above, and have the class explain what is incorrect if something isn’t done
      • Ideally use the Cross-Cut Sled
        • If using the miter gauge, verify the gauge will not touch the blade prior to starting the saw.  If it isn’t set correctly, make the class tell you what is wrong prior to starting the saw.
      • Show the use of a Stop Block to make repeatable cuts
    • Rabbit Cut on one edge
      • Use Rip Blade
        • A new person changes the blade - verify everything like above, and have the class explain what is incorrect if something isn’t done
        • Remove Riving Knife - explain this type of cut [not cutting piece in two pieces] is the only reason to remove the riving knife
      • Set height & fence to desired thickness [I use ¼” wide board for both]
        • I show them how to set height & thickness by feel with ¼” board
        • Also make sure to talk about never putting the fence against the blade, always, ALWAYS make sure the blade is clear [with a visible gap] of the fence
      • Do narrow edge cut first
        • Increased stability, cutting the narrow edge second will cause the board to fall after the cut is complete, making it dangerous with the spinning blade
      • Do the second cut with the wide face down
        • Verify blade height & fence will intercept first cut [reposition if needed]
        • There is a decent chance the small rabbited material will be ejected out the back [similar to kickback].  Use this as an example of how kickback happens and the importance of the riving knife and no one standing behind the table saw while in operation.
    • Bevel Cut [30°] opposite edge & face
      • Use Rip Blade
        • A new person changes the blade - verify everything like above, and have the class explain what is incorrect if something isn’t done
        • Note: Installing the insert after the blade angle and height have been set is impossible, you will either need to lower the blade all the way or put the insert in before you tilt the blade.  I let the class find that out the hard way.
        • Make sure the riving knife gets installed
      • Explain why the bevel is cut after the rabbit - that the bevel makes the stability much more difficult
      • Also, explain that this cut [as well as dado cuts] can easily be done on the router table and should be covered in the router class
    • Half-Lap Cut one side
      • Use Cross-Cut Blade
        • A new person changes the blade - verify everything like above, and have the class explain what is incorrect if something isn’t done
        • Remove Riving Knife - explain [AGAIN] this type of cut [not cutting piece in two pieces] is the only reason to remove the riving knife - beat this into their heads. The riving knife only comes off when not cutting the board into two pieces.
      • Use miter gauge - verify the miter gauge will not come in contact with the blade, and have the class tell you what is wrong prior to starting [I will set it so it does, just don’t forget to fix it if you do]
      • Use “Stop Block” to set the width [make sure the stop block stops prior to coming in contact with the blade]
      • This is very similar to a “dado” cut, but only at an ⅛” cut width
  • Demonstration [not hands-on]
    • How the sliding table works and what it is used with
      • Have the Allen wrench ready 
    • Re-Sawing
      • Limited height [due to fence] - taller boards need to be careful not to tilt while cutting
        • If the board is significantly taller than the fence, the fence height can be extended by clamping a wider board against the fence.  Make sure the clamps do not get in the way of the operation
      • Only cutting ½”-¾” at a time, making sure to cut both edges before raising the blade
      • Mark the face that is going against the fence with a pencil - it makes it easier to verify while cutting
      • It is best to stop just shy of cutting all the way through and finishing by pulling apart or handsaw [nicer finish if using both sides]
  • Q&A
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