Still being tested by - Thomas Lorkowski
First class 02/23/23
Syllabus
● Table Saw Safety
○ SawStop vs PowerMatic
○ Kick-Back - Prevention
Riving Knife / Splitter
Supporting the longest edge [only]
Stand outside the danger zone [between blade & fence]
● Types of Blades ○ Cross-Cut
○ Rip
○ Combo
● Typical Cuts
○ Rip Cuts
○ Cross Cuts
Mitter Gauge
Cross-Cut Sled
Sliding Table
● Basic Controls
○ Raise/Lower the Blade - Setting the height
○ Tilt the blade
● Changing the blade
○ Show how to remove the blade - leave out to show the cartridge
● Changing the Cartridge
○ Show how to remove the riving knife [and remove]
○ Show the removal of the cartridge
○ Explain the difficulty of removal when the cartridge is embedded in the blade
■ Might need to pry with a “screwdriver” prybar ● Make a “Sample Stick”
○ Rip Cut a board 2”-3” wide
Use Rip Blade
● Someone needs to put the blade in since it’s out to show the cartridge
● Verify riving knife is in place
● Verify blade height is correct
● Verify insert is flush with the table
● Verify blade is at 90°
Use tape measure on the fence table for the width
● Have student verify thickness after cutting, explain that it should be considered “close” but not always accurate - always check measurements
○ PREWORK: Cut several boards to ~14” and surface to S3S before class starts
○ It is a good example to have each student mark the cuts they are planning prior to cutting,
that way they can verify the orientation of the blade and board are correct prior to cutting.
○ Explain how it is important to think of the order of cuts, how the order impacts the stability
of other cuts.
■ Verify that the students are putting the surfaced edge against the fence ○ Cross-Cut to 13” Long
■ Use Cross-Cut Blade
● Someone else gets to install the blade - verify everything like above, and have
the class explain what is incorrect if something isn’t done ■ Ideally use the Cross-Cut Sled
● If using the miter gauge, verify the gauge will not touch the blade prior to starting the saw. If it isn’t set correctly, make the class tell you what is wrong prior to starting the saw.
■ Show the use of a Stop Block to make repeatable cuts
○ Rabbit
■ Use Rip Blade
Cut on one edge
● A new person changes the blade - verify everything like above, and have the class explain what is incorrect if something isn’t done
● Remove Riving Knife - explain this type of cut [not cutting piece in two pieces] is the only reason to remove the riving knife
Set height & fence to desired thickness [I use 1⁄4” wide board for both]
● I show them how to set height & thickness by feel with 1⁄4” board
● Also make sure to talk about never putting the fence against the blade,
always, ALWAYS make sure the blade is clear [with a visible gap] of the fence
Do narrow edge cut first
● Increased stability, cutting the narrow edge second will cause the board to fall after the cut is complete, making it dangerous with the spinning blade
Do the second cut with the wide edge down
● Verify blade height & fence will intercept first cut [reposition if needed]
● There is a decent chance the small rabbited material will be ejected out theback [similar to kickback]. Use this as an example of how kickback happens and the importance of the riving knife and no one standing behind the table saw while in operation.
○ Bevel Cut [30°] opposite edge & face
Use Rip Blade
● A new person changes the blade - verify everything like above, and have the class explain what is incorrect if something isn’t done
● Note: Installing the insert after the blade angle and height have been set is impossible, you will either need to lower the blade all the way or put the insert in before you tilt the blade. I let the class find that out the hard way.
● Make sure the riving knife gets installed
Explain why the bevel is cut after the rabbit - that the bevel makes the stability much
more difficult
Also, explain that this cut [as well as dado cuts] can easily be done on the router
table and should be covered in the router class
○ Half-Lap Cut one side
■ Use Cross-Cut Blade
● A new person changes the blade - verify everything like above, and have the class explain what is incorrect if something isn’t done
● Remove Riving Knife - explain [AGAIN] this type of cut [not cutting piece in two pieces] is the only reason to remove the riving knife - beat this into their heads. The riving knife only comes off when not cutting the board into two pieces.
Use miter gauge - verify the miter gauge will not come in contact with the blade, and have the class tell you what is wrong prior to starting [I will set it so it does, just don’t forget to fix it if you do]
Use “Stop Block” to set the width [make sure the stop block stops prior to coming in contact with the blade]
This is very similar to a “dado” cut, but only at an 1⁄8” cut width
● Demonstration [not hands-on]
○ How the sliding table works and what it is used with ■ Have the Allen wrench ready
○ Re-Sawing
■ Limited height [due to fence] - taller boards need to be careful not to tilt while
● Q&A
cutting
● If the board is significantly taller than the fence, the fence height can be
extended by clamping a wider board against the fence. Make sure the clamps
do not get in the way of operation
Only cutting 1⁄2”-3⁄4” at a time, making sure to cut both edges before raising the blade
Mark the face that is going against the fence with a pencil - it makes it easier to
verify while cutting
It is best to stop just shy of cutting all the way through and finishing by pulling apart
or handsaw [nicer finish if using both sides]